By Mike Whitten
South Central Staff Writer
October 25, 2010
Man, has the world changed here, or WHAT?
Let me start this effort off by stating up front that I AM OLD—I was around and fishing when a Mitchell 300 spinning reel was the top of the line freshwater reel, and monofilament was a new and RADICAL concept. Jason Lucas, the venerable, pipe smoking fishing editor for Sports Afield magazine, was still writing about SILK, hollow core braided line for level wind baitcasters. Pay attention there pilgrim, I said Silk braid, not Spectra and Dyneema, and in 5, 6, and 8 pound tests—Mr. Lucas never envisioned PowerPro 50 or 65 pound string, trust me on this one! I can remember when the buying decision on line came down to Stren monofilament, or Berkley monofilament, and it got real technical when we had to choose between XL and XT.
The universe of “string” has changed dramatically in the past decade and is still in a state of flux. Just take a stroll down the back wall of a Bass Pro Shop and look at the number of different choices available, even within a single company brand, and there are multiple choices within each major type of extrusion. As anglers we have learned, or been taught, that one type of line now no longer works for all fishing applications. I really believe that to be the fact of the matter. Just like rods and reels are tools and must be matched to a particular job, no less is line selection a critical part of the tackle selection process.
There are three major classes of fishing line: Monofilament, Flourocarbon, and Braid. Within these there are several hybrids or blends that attempt to capture the best qualities of each type. What follows is my experience, and personal preference with each type of line.
Monofilament
The old school, traditional extruded nylon fishing line. Comes in various colors, including clear, blue fluorescent, green, and other hues that include yellow, red and even camouflage. Mono is still the standard for a large group of anglers, is less expensive than the other major types, and still has a very definite place in the advanced/tournament angler’s box. IMHO, NOTHING replaces mono for fishing topwater lures and some crankbaits, like the square bill variety. The most important quality of mono is that it will float, thus allowing topwater lures to float properly at rest, without a sinking line pulling the nose down and killing the action. I also prefer it with shallow jerkbaits, when I want them to float back to the surface. A line that sinks, versus one that floats, tends to kill this action. Monofilament also has more lateral stretch in general than other lines, and can add a shock absorber when used with crankbaits and spinnerbaits, lures that are fished from the reel. I have found that my hook/land ratio is better with mono when fishing heavy, square billed crankbaits.
Fluorocarbon
The new “wonderchild” in fishing lines, Fluoro has been discussed and cussed more than any other fishing line product in my “older than dirt” memory. From its genesis as a “no-visibility”, neutral buoyancy leader material on the saltwater flats, fluorocarbon has moved from the world of bonefish and tarpon to the reels of serious bass anglers. The advantages are a somewhat smaller diameter per pound test, virtual invisibility in the water, reduced stretch, improved feel by way of vibration transmission and “ALLEGEDLY” higher abrasion resistance.
After fishing with various brand and pound tests, I am firmly of the opinion that fluorocarbon line DOES offer tangible advantages to experienced anglers, those who are already comfortable with both baitcasting and spinning tackle, and who will take the time to learn the nuances of this very different line. Fluorocarbon lines, all of them, are stiffer and more wiry than traditional monofilament. They will NOT lay on the reel spool as “calmly” as mono and are thus more likely to “fluff up” or backlash on baitcasters, and can be a handful on a fixed spool spinning reel.
Fluorocarbon definitely transmits the feel of the lure and the instant of the strike better than mono because the line is stiffer and denser—just like solid copper wire would transmit vibrations better than the same length and diameter of bailing twine. Hooksets are more solid and quicker. Passive lures such as jigs, Texas and Carolina rigs—any passive technique—will benefit from the use of fluoro lines. My Carolina rig fishing has improved dramatically since I made the switch to a fluorocarbon main line coupled with a 12-15 pound fluorocarbon leader. The difference in ability to detect bottom compensation, fish strike, and to effectively set a hook is very real and tangible. Shakey head fishing and dropshotting go to a completely different level of confidence with fluorocarbon on the reel. I just can’t go back to mono for either of these techniques. Deep cranking is another area where I prefer fluorocarbon in 8, 10 and 12 pound test. It has been my experience that I can get a bait one to two feet deeper with much better feel versus the same lure on monofilament. I attribute this to the density of the line and its sinking qualities. I do know that it does give me a depth and feel advantage.
One tip: the BTS Line and Lure conditioner spray offered by Vicious Line and by KVD is the real deal. This polymer spray actually bonds with the fluorocarbon line and will cause it to “relax” and to behave much better on the reel spool. I spray my reels before every trip and the improvement is immediate and obvious.
Braid
Modern braided lines are light years away from the hollow core silk lines of Jason Lucas’ day, or the green kite string Cortland Dacron that my dad tied to my first Jitterbug over 50 years ago. Today’s braids are a marvel of product design, featuring a Spectra or Dyneema fiber woven over a round core to create a tremendously strong, incredibly small and totally limp fishing line. First touted as a heavy cover flipping and pitching line, braid has now found its way to a honored place on both casting and spinning tackle, and I’ve even seen it on saltwater tackle aimed at bluewater species like marlin, sails and dolphin.
It has found a home on the rods of TVA grass lake anglers as the preferred line for “Frog Fishing” with plastic frogs danced across the vast mats of hydrilla and coontail. Nothing works better for this application, and braid is also a great tool for pitching and punching grass mats with Texas rigged plastics.
In my personal fishing, I have found 30 pound Vicious braid to be a wonderful tool for 4000 series spinning reels for Carolina rigging, and in the same or smaller tests for shaky head outfits. I have several folks who fish with me regularly who simply cannot handle fluorocarbon line, but with a base line of braid, coupled with a 5-15 foot “topshot” of fluorocarbon, I can offer them a serious angling tool with exceptional feel and hooksetting potential, with none of the wind knot or line twist problems that accrue to mono or fluoro on spinning reels. Want to teach a kid or novice angler how to Carolina rig? Set them up with 30# Vicious braid and a 3’ length of 12# fluorocarbon leader on a 7’ heavy action spinning rig, add your favorite soft plastic bait and get them around a school of bass on a ledge. I guarantee they will know when they get a bite and hooksets will be automatic!
I could dive off into the specifics and the arcane about each of these lines, but Heidi would never publish it. So, in summary; Mono is the default line—it will work for almost anything, but is a must for topwaters and shallow crankbaits and spinnerbaits. Fluorocarbon is for experienced anglers and passive lure techniques, as well as deep cranking. Braids work well in vegetation situations, and can be a game saver on spinning reels when paired with a clear mono or fluorocarbon leader.
All of the stuff above is what I do. What I’ve learned works best for me after hours of frustration and experimentation. Try it, change it, see what works best for you.
